Choosing between the different shoulder types for your jacket is one of the most important options.
There are a variety of different shoulder types to choose from. Each of the shoulder types will create a slight different silhouette and body shape. It is advised that you try on a variety of types in order to choose which is the most suitable and appropriate for your body shape.
Popular options include
The Soft (or American) Shoulder. This type uses minimal padding, curving down at the ends to follow into the arm. It creates a softer, lighter and airier feel than the traditional option. It follows the body’s natural curves. Also known a the sack suit or ‘preppy’ look.
The Roped (or Italian) Shoulder. This type has a slightly more padded style. It appears as though a ‘rope’ has been placed underneath. It’s raised slightly. The roped style looks slightly more rigid and formal. It can make the wearer look broader and can build up the wearer.
The Traditional (British or padded) Shoulder. This type has a light padding to build up the shoulders and is slightly stiffer than the other options. It creates a sharper angle in the corner emphasising the shoulders, creating a more masculine shape, with a vertical drop at the edge, where the shoulder hits the sleeve. It can suit someone who has smaller, or sloping shoulders by adding some bulk. It is the most structured and formal of the options.
The Unconstructed (or natural) Shoulder. This type has no padding at all. It can be found in Neapolitan tailoring or very casual jackets. It features a light puckering at the seam where the sleeve connects to the shoulder aiding freedom of movement. The natural, unconstructed shoulder is very difficult to find ‘off the peg’ as it needs to closely match the natural shoulder line. They also need to be the correct width; if the shoulder is too wide it will droop down since there is no padding to support it.