All our garments are made using traditional tailoring craft.
As a standard our suits are constructed in a traditional half or full-canvas and we never use inferior fused constructions. Every Tailor Made garment is individually crafted from a unique pattern and hand-finished using only the finest materials to achieve luxurious comfort and fit. Our garments are tailored using established sartorial traditions with patterns designed to flow with the natural contours of the body.
We would love you to experience the detailing, comfort, and style of our garments. Craftsmanship is evident in all of our suits, jackets and shirts. You will not find such craftsmanship at this price point at any other tailor. In order to achieve optimal comfort and fit, only natural, soft, supple and lightweight materials are used.
- Basted Lapels
- Canvas Interlining
- Working Cuff Buttons
- Underside of Collar
- Flower loop
- Armhole Lining
- Dress Shields
- Jets in Facing
- AMF Stitching
- Button Attachment
- ‘D’ Bar Tags
- Facing and Lining in Seam
- ‘After-dinner Split
- Coin Pocket
- Dupont Pocket
- Belt Loops
- Side Adjusters
- AMF on Side Pockets
- Tacking Thread
By attaching the canvas to the lapels with a degree of tension, we create the famous ‘rolling’ lapel. This allows for a natural and closer fit.
In all our jackets, we use various layers of canvas interwoven with horsehair. This ensures that the front piece of the jacket moulds to fit the shape of the body after it has been worn a few times and retains that shape. The different canvas layers are separate and float between the material and the lining to provide optimum comfort.
Working Cuff Buttons
All of our suits and jackets are crafted with working buttonholes as standard. A mark of a fine tailored suit.
Underside of Collar
We lengthen the jacket’s collar so that we can turn back the ends. this hides the [contrasting] felt from view when the suit is worn. the collar points are secured with fine hand-stitching.
this is the loop on the back of the left lapel. the loop is hand-crafted and used to be a functional detail, designed to hold a flower in place. nowadays, it is a nod to tradition.
While the jacket is being made, it is generally turned inside out in order to construct the layers between the outer material and the lining. Once this is complete, the jacket is turned right-side out. the reversal of the jacket is usually performed through an opening in the sleeve lining. this stitch is clearly visible and often feels uncomfortable when the jacket is worn. We reverse the jacket through the armhole and then invisibly close up the lining of the armhole, which is only possible with hand stitching. this avoids the ‘cheap’ and often uncomfortable stitch in the sleeve lining.
The dress shields can be found under the armholes of the jacket. They ensure good humidity regulation and prevents penetration of moisture.
Jets in Facing
The jets of the inside pockets extends into the facing, which requires extra work during the tailoring of the suit. As a result, the inside pockets are closer to the front and easier to reach. this is a feature you rarely find today.
The function of AMf stitching is to keep the jacket’s canvas interlining in place with regard to the outer fabric. This stitch is very time consuming and as such, you rarely find jackets with AMF on all the seam – usually only on the lapels. We offer full AMF on all of our jackets, creating that attractive finish.
All buttons are attached by hand using a cross stitch and on a stem. Cross stitching by hand makes the button attachment extra strong, so that the buttons are less likely to come off. We use shank buttons stem to enable the button to pass through the buttonhole more easily and leave space between button and buttonhole when the buttons are done up to prevent them from pressing against the front of the jacket.
‘D’ Bar Tags
You will find ‘D’ bar tags on all pockets of the suit.The bar adds extra reinforcement to the pocket to prevent tears. The half-moon (the D-tag) is a purely decorative, luxury detail.
Facing and Lining in Seam
We attach the facing and lining a good distance from the seam of the jacket so that the [contrasting] lining at these points is never visible when the jacket is worn.
Gives just that little extra space in the waistband after a meal, ensuring that the trousers always fit comfortably.
This is the small pocket inside the right trouser pocket which you can use to store, change, key cards and the like to keep them neatly in place.
Named after the famous lighters of S .T. Dupont which fit exactly into this pocket situated immediately under the waistband in the right front piece. A traditional detail.
These are attached using a slip stitch so that no stitching is visible on the belt loops.
Trouser waistband attachment, tacks, closure all done by hand.
AMF on Side Pockets
We use an AMF stitch to keep the fabric for the side trouser pockets in place instead of the normal, cheaper straight stitch.
This serves to protect the suit during pressing and transit.